Managing Hyperpigmentation
Managing Hyperpigmentation
by
Tatiana Selleri, Pharmacist
INTRODUCTION
Skin hyperpigmentation
is a common dermatological condition in which the color of the skin becomes
darker. These changes in skin coloration can be a result of various internal
and external factors including hormonal changes, inflammation, injury, acne,
eczema, certain medication, and UV exposure among others (Pérez-Bernal et al., 2000). Skin
pigmentation and coloration are governed by the biological processes involving
the production of the skin pigment melanin which is produced by melanocytes in
various layers of skin. Thus, alterations in melanocyte production or
distribution of melanin result in skin hyperpigmentation disorders (Rossi &
Perez, 2011).
Hyperpigmentation
is not considered a harmful or lethal disorder; however, it can impact the
quality of life of patients by affecting their emotional and psychological
health. Various treatment options are available for hyperpigmentation. These
agents are primarily applied by topical route in the form of creams, gels, or
ointments. However, these topical treatments are associated with various side effects such as
skin drying, irritation, peeling, or hypopigmentation. The prolonged treatment
durations ranging from several months to years may lead to poor patient
compliance and dissatisfaction. Compounding offers us a way to customize therapy and
choose active ingredients that best suit a given patient’s needs.
Types of hyperpigmentation
There are
several types of hyperpigmentation, the common ones are melasma, sunspots, and
post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
Melasma
Melasma is
believed to be caused by hormonal changes and may develop during pregnancy.
Areas of hyperpigmentation can appear on any area of the body, but they appear
most commonly on the stomach and face.
Melasma has a variety of different causes, two stand out:
·
Hormones (including hormonal medications).
Fluctuations in certain hormones can cause melasma, which is why it commonly
occurs during pregnancy. Melasma may also occur when starting or stopping hormonal
contraception, including birth control pills, or with hormone replacement
therapy.
·
Sun exposure. The sun is the big culprit in triggering
melasma as it is the major exacerbating factor, whatever the underlying cause.
Melasma can be caused or worsened by, not only the sun's rays, but also by heat
and visible light. This means that even sunscreens that protect against skin
cancer aren't enough to ward off melasma. This makes treating melasma a
challenge, particularly in the summer months.
Post-inflammatory
hyperpigmentation
This is a result
of injury or inflammation to the skin. A common cause of this type is acne.
Post-inflammatory
hyperpigmentation (PIH) is one of the most common disorders of acquired
hyperpigmentation. It often develops following cutaneous inflammation and is
triggered by various stimuli, from inflammatory and autoimmune conditions to
iatrogenic causes and mechanical injuries. While it is well established that an
increase in melanin production and distribution within the epidermis and dermis
is a hallmark feature of this condition, the exact mechanisms underlying PIH
are not completely understood. Topical depigmenting agents are still used as
the main modality of treatment for melasma.
Sunspots
Also
called solar lentigines, sunspots are common. They’re related to excessive
sun exposure over time. Generally, they appear as spots on areas exposed to the
sun, like the hands and face.
Topical
treatment options
In this part of
the article, we are focusing on topical treatment options for
hyperpigmentation.
Hydroquinone
Hydroquinone
(HQ), which inhibits the conversion of 1-3,4-dihydroxyphenylalanine to melanin
by competitive inhibition of tyrosinase, is the most popular anti-melanogenic
agent. It has remained the gold standard for the treatment of melasma,
particularly of the epidermal type. HQ preparations are commonly used in the
treatment of melasma at concentrations varying from 2 to 5% applied once daily.
Variably good yet reversible results are obtained in most of the patients
treated with HQ. The depigmenting effects of the HQ treatment become evident
after 5-7 weeks. Treatment should be continued for at least three months, up to
one year. HQ is also formulated in combination with other agents like
sunscreens, topical steroids, retinoids, and glycolic acids for added benefits.
α-Hydroxy acids and retinoids added to assist lightening, and the steroidal or
other anti-inflammatory ingredients added to control irritancy may cause the
skin to thin and further increase susceptibility to inflammation and
photodamage.
Regarding the
use of HQ, safety issues have been raised including exogenous ochronosis,
permanent depigmentation, and potential carcinogenic risk. An antioxidant
system, most commonly the combination of sodium sulfite and sodium
metabisulfite, is added to hydroquinone formulations to stabilize it due to its
sensitivity to oxygen and light.
Nourivan™
Antioxidant is a ready to use cream base formulated by Fagron with a pool of antioxidants
to stabilize hydroquinone and other all easily
oxidizable active ingredients. It allows high standardization and security of
the compounding preparation. Nourivan™ Antioxidant has a soft and delicate
texture, suitable for applications on the face and body.
The safety issue
of HQ has motivated researchers to find other effective – yet safe – topical
agents. To date,
niacinamide, ascorbic acid, resveratrol, azelaic acid, and kojic acid are considered
alternative topical agents that have been reported to exhibit depigmenting
properties without severe adverse effects. However, topical depigmenting agents
alone cannot restore photoaged skin condition in melasma. Thus, anti-aging
approaches should be combined with topical depigmenting agents because melasma
frequently relapses without the correction of other photoaging -related
conditions that affect melanogenesis.
Several studies
demonstrated that combination therapy with hydroquinone, tretinoin and topical
steroids is more effective, reliable, and safer in treatment of melasma as
compared with hydroquinone alone and it provides rapid and sustained clinical
improvement in the treatment of melasma.
Retinoids
Retinoids, such
as tretinoin, were first used in combination with hydroquinone as penetration enhancers
but were later recognized to have their own effect on melanogenesis. Retinoids
affect multiple steps in the melanization pathway. Tretinoin promotes the rapid
loss of pigment through epidermopoiesis and increased epidermal turnover which decreases
the contact time between keratinocytes and melanocytes. Retinoic acid (RA)
suppresses UVB-induced pigmentation by reducing tyrosinase activity. The acid
acts at a posttranscriptional level on tyrosinase and tyrosinase-related
protein. Compared with phenolic compounds like HQ, RA takes a much longer time
to act; clinically significant lightening becomes evident after 24 weeks.
Tretinoin
monotherapy has produced a good therapeutic response in clinical trials but
better results are obtained in combination with other agents like HQ and
corticosteroids. The most common side effects include erythema, burning,
stinging, dryness, and scaling. The inflammation may cause hyperpigmentation,
particularly in people with dark skin.
Steroids
A range of
topical corticosteroids have been used in the treatment of melasma and other
hyperpigmentation disorders. Mild steroids (hydrocortisone 1%) have been used
with poor results, while potent (betamethasone 2%) and very potent steroids
(clobetasol propionate 0.05%) gave better results, as they have a better
efficacy when combined with tretinoin or hydroquinone. The adverse effects of
topical steroids are those typical of their long-term use; atrophy, itching,
acne, and telangiectasias, especially frequent in areas more susceptible to
local steroid damage (e.g. the face).
Tranexamic acid
Tranexamic acid (TA)
has been evaluated for the treatment of melasma in various formulations,
including topical, intradermal, and oral. TA is a fibrinolytic agent that has
antiplasmin properties. It has been hypothesized that TA can inhibit the
release of paracrine melanogenic factors that normally act to stimulate
melanocytes. The efficacy of topical TA has been assessed by several studies. A
variety of topical formulations and regimens were used, including 3% TA cream
for 12 weeks, 5% TA gel for 12 weeks, 3% TA solution for 12 weeks, 5% TA
liposome for 12 weeks, and 2% TA formulation for 12 weeks. A review of the
studies reported supporting data of TA’s effectiveness in lightening dyschromia.
Topical TA appears to be as effective as topical hydroquinone, combination
topical hydroquinone and dexamethasone, and intradermal injections of TA.
Kojic acid
Kojic acid (5-hydroxy-2 hydroxymethyl-4-pyrone) is a naturally occurring hydrophilic fungal product derived from certain species of Acetobacter, Aspergillus, and Penicillium. It reduces hyperpigmentation by inhibiting the production of free tyrosinase and is also a potent antioxidant. Kojic acid (KA) is used at concentrations ranging from 1% to 4%. There are no RCTs available comparing KA to other treatments. However, because both KA and HQ are tyrosinase inhibitors, the combination augments efficacy.
Vitamin C
Vitamin C is a
naturally occurring antioxidant that interacts with copper ions at the
tyrosinase active site. Vitamin C acts as a reducing agent at various oxidative
steps of melanin formation, hence inhibiting melanogenesis. Studies have shown
that the reduced tyrosinase activity mediated by vitamin C seems to be caused
by antioxidant activity, and not by the direct inhibition of tyrosinase
activity.
Alpha tocopherol
(Vitamin E)
Vitamin E is the
major lipophilic antioxidant in plasma, membranes, and tissues. The term
“vitamin E” includes eight naturally occurring molecules (four tocopherols and
four tocotrienols) that have vitamin E activity. In humans, alpha tocopherol is
the most abundant vitamin E derivative, followed by gamma tocopherol. There is large
experimental evidence proving its photo-protective effects. It has been shown
to cause depigmentation by interference with lipid peroxidation of melanocyte
membranes, increase in intracellular glutathione content, and inhibition of
tyrosinase. Topical alpha-tocopherol is mostly used at concentration of 5% or
less, products with varying concentrations have been marketed. Side-effects
such as allergic or irritant reactions are rare with topical vitamin E and
hence, it is a component of cosmeceuticals preparations.
Niacinamide
Known as
nicotinamide (3-pyridine-carboxamide), it is the physiologically active amide
of niacin (vitamin B3). Niacin is involved in the synthesis of the enzymes
Nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD) and nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide
phosphate (NADP) required for cellular metabolism. Study done on pigmented
reconstructed epidermis (PREP) showed that niacinamide interferes with the
interaction between keratinocytes and melanocytes, thereby inhibiting
melanogenesis. It also modulates the protease-activated receptor (PAR-2) that
is involved in the transfer of melanosomes from melanocytes to surrounding
keratinocytes. Clinical trials using 2% niacinamide have shown that it
significantly reduces the total area of hyperpigmentation and increases skin
lightness after 4 weeks of treatment. There is a plateau in treatment effect
which could be due to balance between the up regulation of melanogenesis in the
hyperpigmented area and the downregulation by niacinamide. Alternatively, the
plateau could reflect the fraction of the hyperpigmented area that is sensitive
to niacinamide treatment. The study also showed that the daily use of
niacinamide with sunscreen was effective in reducing hyperpigmentation and in
increasing lightness of basal skin color compared with sunscreen alone.
α-Bisabolol
α-Bisabolol
[1-methyl-4(1,5-dimethyl-1-hydroxhex-4(5)-enyl)-cyclohexen-1] is a monocyclic
sesquiterpene alcohol extracted from German Chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla).
α-Bisabolol is known to possess anti-inflammatory, analgesic, and antibiotic
properties. One study reported that
α-bisabolol was an effective inhibitor of hyperpigmentation by inhibiting
α-MSH-induced melanogenesis (Kim et al., 2008). Moreover, α-bisabolol-containing
cream has significant lightening effect in the pigmented skin. Effective
dosages of α-Bisabolol are: 0,1%, 0,5% and 1%. Though
bisabolol doesn’t meet FDA requirements for compounding for 503a pharmacies, it
is present in some cream bases already as an excipient, such as Cleoderm.
Chemical peels
Chemical
peels have been time-tested and alpha-hydroxy peels are highly popular in the
dermatologist's arsenal of procedures. Glycolic acid peel is the most common
alpha-hydroxy acid peel, also known as fruit peel. It is simple, inexpensive,
and has no downtime. There are various studies of glycolic acid peels for different
indications, such as acne, acne scars, melasma, post inflammatory
hyperpigmentation, photoaging, and seborrhea. Alpha-hydroxy acid peel can be
used as a very superficial peel, or even a medium depth peel. It has been found
to be very safe with Fitzpatrick skin types I-IV. Chemical peels should not be
used during summer to avoid post inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
Conclusion
The role of the dermatologist is crucial in the identification of the
cause of the hyperpigmentation and to develop an appropriate treatment plan.
It’s important to protect the skin from further sun damage and
hyperpigmentation. Wearing sunscreen with SPF 30 or
higher every day is fundamental. In
addition to these basic measures for skin protection, compounding can offer customized
formulations with a variety of APIs to meet the needs of patients with various
types of hyperpigmentation.
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